THE DARK SIDE OF FAME : EVEREST (18+)
Warning: the following post contains the images of the dead bodies. This article is not recommended for and easily stressed people and people with weak mentality.
Everything is in duality: everything has both good and bad sides. Same situation appears when we hear mind-blowing stories about brave people who climbed high mountains. But we are never told about all the dirt and difficulties that mountaineers meet during their trips.
Mount Everest is the highest mountain in the world. The peak of it opens the wonderful view. This is the top of the world, and nothing could be better around. However, there is a reversed part of all this beauty – scores of not-buried dead bodies which are spread on the height of 7600+ meters.
Those bodies lie there for years: some of them are being transformed into congelation, some become skeletons, the rest become mummified.
Mountaineers see them when the snow goes down, they know every body which lies there, they use them as orienteering. Those dead climbers lie there in the same positions, in which the death first met them. Near them you can find empty oxygen tanks. The uniform has faded under the Sun and severe wind.
Once it was an Indian mountain-climber. He died on the height of 8500 meters, thus didn’t manage to climb 348 to its dream – the peak of the mountain. His name, unfortunately, is not remembered anymore. Nowadays people call him “Green Boots” which works as an reference point for other climbers.
This body is thought to be George Herbert Leigh Mallory, the first conqueror of the Everest. When he was asked why he was doing this, he answered: “Because it exists”. In 1924 Mallory became the first person who managed to get on the top of the mountain, but unfortunately, on the way back, he and his colleague Irvine got into blizzard and they fell down. Irvine was not found, while George Mallory was found 75 years after his disappearance, in 1999, with the body still not decomposed.
Some people might think that this article is not reliable. But even as bad as it might sound, it is true and humans should be aware about it. People pay from 20 to 65 thousands dollars trying to conquer Chomolungma, additionally pay the gobsmacked and tragic experience of sleeping in the tents near the dead bodies of their predecessors and making videos of them.
Sometimes, people even film the bodies “which are still alive”, and are in the process of dying. It is 2006. In the grotto in the height of 8500 meters, David Sharp – an English mountaineer – was slowly dying after his oxygen tank stopped working. The expedition, which was passing by, was trying to figure out what his name was, and after they understood, that the person cannot talk, they just went back to their business – conquer Mountain Everest. The film crew members of the Russell Brice (Himex) team had taped footage of Sharp alive and speaking to them on May 15th (the last phrase he managed to say was “My name is David Sharp and I am with Asian Trekking”). Mark Joseph Inglis – mountaineer, a double leg amputee – was the part of the team, and was there at that black day.
As Inglis said after, in that day around 40 climbers had passed through Sharp. The weather was good, and everybody was rushing, trying to reach the top.
Here comes a questions of ethics? Is it normal to leave your friend, or even a human that you have never met before without any change of being saved? Unfortunately, the reality appears to be really cruel. On the height of 7600+ meters, the amount of oxygen is three times lower than on the ground. And here the “secret law” takes its place: “if you cannot walk – die”. Even the helicopters are not able to get to his height, as their blades are not possible to spin in such rarefied air. So it is obvious, that you cannot physically save somebody. The movements here are as difficult as on the bottom of the sea, while your body having a weight much bigger than the normal, the breathing process is extremely difficult, thus – you cannot save people, because you will die yourself.
At the same time it is extremely “easy” to die in this kind of conditions. For example, on the height of 7600+ meters you can just lose control, fall down and die because of the overloading. As all of our systems nearly don’t work in here, the exhaustion proceeds much faster. The deterioration of your organs is blazing, it is easier to get hypostasis of your organs than get flu. With the lack of oxygen, your brain works in the economy mode: your thoughts are slow, you hallucinate, you ask yourself questions and cannot find the answers for them. At the same time the weather conditions keep you in the very strict frames: the wind could reach 80km/h, and the temperature after the sunset could be -45C. Even if you don’t die, the night in these conditions could bring you lots of troubles if you occasionally get lost and don’t manage to find a camp on the safe height.
The chilblain is thought to be the most harmless consequence that you could get out of this “trip”. Even a sneeze can cause death. In his book “Into thin air”, Jon Krakauer was writing: “In the morning one of the Taiwanese guys gets out of the tent, so that he could fully wake up and wash his face. You can see soft boots on his feet. Then he sits, slips and flies down the slope, and in, approximately, 20 meters fell in the deep crack. Sherpa get him out of there and help him to reach the tent. The guy is completely stressed, even though for the first glance it is impossible to find any physical harm. After than the rest of the group is taken in the direction of the camp IV, which is located on southern col, while their Taiwanese fellow has been left alone in the tent. In a few hours the condition of the man suddenly drops down, he loses consciousness and then dies. American mountaineers state the situation to the leader of the group using a portable radio transmitter. The leader of the group answers: “Okey. Thank you.” and as nothing has happened says to the rest of the group that the death of the fellow won’t affect the schedule of their rise.”
Lots of mountain climbers are saying that on the height of 8000 meters you cannot afford yourself being moral. And we cannot judge the people who are passing by the dead ones, because we have never been in such situations. They say “if you cannot walk – die”. They say that the probability of saving the dying person on the height 7600+ is much smaller that the probability that you, as a rescuer-volunteer, will die with the person you are trying to save. But there is a man, who shows that it is not always true.
May 1996, Beck Weathers got into one of the strongest storms for the whole history of Everest, which claimed the lives of three instructors and their clients. In the hurricane wind Beck was left dying on the top of the mountain. After 12 hours he came to his senses, joined the downward group, and after, when the group had already found the camp, he got lost. On the next day some rescuers-Sherpa were passing by him, but they thought he was dead. When Beck woke up, he managed to reach the tend in southern col. But during the night he was blown away, and once again he needed to spend the night in cold.
theories. Or, it is just an irrefutable evidence that the humans are nothing comparing to the nature and the Universe itself.
Written by Abram Rizenshnautser (ru)
Sometimes, people even film the bodies “which are still alive”, and are in the process of dying. It is 2006. In the grotto in the height of 8500 meters, David Sharp – an English mountaineer – was slowly dying after his oxygen tank stopped working. The expedition, which was passing by, was trying to figure out what his name was, and after they understood, that the person cannot talk, they just went back to their business – conquer Mountain Everest. The film crew members of the Russell Brice (Himex) team had taped footage of Sharp alive and speaking to them on May 15th (the last phrase he managed to say was “My name is David Sharp and I am with Asian Trekking”). Mark Joseph Inglis – mountaineer, a double leg amputee – was the part of the team, and was there at that black day.
As Inglis said after, in that day around 40 climbers had passed through Sharp. The weather was good, and everybody was rushing, trying to reach the top.
Here comes a questions of ethics? Is it normal to leave your friend, or even a human that you have never met before without any change of being saved? Unfortunately, the reality appears to be really cruel. On the height of 7600+ meters, the amount of oxygen is three times lower than on the ground. And here the “secret law” takes its place: “if you cannot walk – die”. Even the helicopters are not able to get to his height, as their blades are not possible to spin in such rarefied air. So it is obvious, that you cannot physically save somebody. The movements here are as difficult as on the bottom of the sea, while your body having a weight much bigger than the normal, the breathing process is extremely difficult, thus – you cannot save people, because you will die yourself.
At the same time it is extremely “easy” to die in this kind of conditions. For example, on the height of 7600+ meters you can just lose control, fall down and die because of the overloading. As all of our systems nearly don’t work in here, the exhaustion proceeds much faster. The deterioration of your organs is blazing, it is easier to get hypostasis of your organs than get flu. With the lack of oxygen, your brain works in the economy mode: your thoughts are slow, you hallucinate, you ask yourself questions and cannot find the answers for them. At the same time the weather conditions keep you in the very strict frames: the wind could reach 80km/h, and the temperature after the sunset could be -45C. Even if you don’t die, the night in these conditions could bring you lots of troubles if you occasionally get lost and don’t manage to find a camp on the safe height.
The chilblain is thought to be the most harmless consequence that you could get out of this “trip”. Even a sneeze can cause death. In his book “Into thin air”, Jon Krakauer was writing: “In the morning one of the Taiwanese guys gets out of the tent, so that he could fully wake up and wash his face. You can see soft boots on his feet. Then he sits, slips and flies down the slope, and in, approximately, 20 meters fell in the deep crack. Sherpa get him out of there and help him to reach the tent. The guy is completely stressed, even though for the first glance it is impossible to find any physical harm. After than the rest of the group is taken in the direction of the camp IV, which is located on southern col, while their Taiwanese fellow has been left alone in the tent. In a few hours the condition of the man suddenly drops down, he loses consciousness and then dies. American mountaineers state the situation to the leader of the group using a portable radio transmitter. The leader of the group answers: “Okey. Thank you.” and as nothing has happened says to the rest of the group that the death of the fellow won’t affect the schedule of their rise.”
Lots of mountain climbers are saying that on the height of 8000 meters you cannot afford yourself being moral. And we cannot judge the people who are passing by the dead ones, because we have never been in such situations. They say “if you cannot walk – die”. They say that the probability of saving the dying person on the height 7600+ is much smaller that the probability that you, as a rescuer-volunteer, will die with the person you are trying to save. But there is a man, who shows that it is not always true.
May 1996, Beck Weathers got into one of the strongest storms for the whole history of Everest, which claimed the lives of three instructors and their clients. In the hurricane wind Beck was left dying on the top of the mountain. After 12 hours he came to his senses, joined the downward group, and after, when the group had already found the camp, he got lost. On the next day some rescuers-Sherpa were passing by him, but they thought he was dead. When Beck woke up, he managed to reach the tend in southern col. But during the night he was blown away, and once again he needed to spend the night in cold.
theories. Or, it is just an irrefutable evidence that the humans are nothing comparing to the nature and the Universe itself.
Written by Abram Rizenshnautser (ru)
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